69.5Mav":l32n42t6 said:Oh my
We haven't heard from Reweb since sunday night. I hope he hasn't done something silly like Auto/cide. Please say it aint so.
69.5mav
He probably just has a life, unlike all of us.
69.5Mav":l32n42t6 said:Oh my
We haven't heard from Reweb since sunday night. I hope he hasn't done something silly like Auto/cide. Please say it aint so.
69.5mav
Bort62":nw36s1cw said:69.5Mav":nw36s1cw said:Oh my
We haven't heard from Reweb since sunday night. I hope he hasn't done something silly like Auto/cide. Please say it aint so.
69.5mav
He probably just has a life, unlike all of us.
wallaka":2xxnub1a said:Bort62":2xxnub1a said:69.5Mav":2xxnub1a said:Oh my
We haven't heard from Reweb since sunday night. I hope he hasn't done something silly like Auto/cide. Please say it aint so.
69.5mav
He probably just has a life, unlike all of us.
Hey, I just don't do much at work
Bort62":rw6tbnw2 said:BIGREDRASA":rw6tbnw2 said:A stretched/loose timing chain won't make the marks on both sides of the gear teeth like we saw. Only extreme tightness will.
I would challenge that assertation. I also maintain that no amount of relative movement between the timing gears that doesn't result in complete failure will affect the ignition timing significantly. If your ignition timing is changing, and the timing gears are still mechanically connected... then it's a problem with the distributor/distributor drive.
The suggestion of a damaged distributor drive gear is attractive, but I also entertain the idea of a faulty SCV valve. I do not recall if he ever tried static timing w/o vacuum advance.
If the SCV valve were improperly switching between manifold and ported vacuum, it could explain a sudden shift of as much as 20* or more.
BIGREDRASA":3m0d9dx1 said:Let's just look at the evidence. A stretched/loose timing chain won't make the marks on both sides of the gear teeth like we saw. Only extreme tightness will. No coil, DS II, or muffler bearings will cause that. As Sir William of Okham said, the simplest reason is usually the correct answer. Not common or frequent, but simplest. The marks on the teeth are from excess tension, and that is one consequence of the two sprockets' distance changing. Just use the starter to turn the engine over and watch to see what happens to the chain and gears.
bigfordsix":3pe4fo82 said:I'm wondering, I just noticed in your last post that you have also changed to a different carb, are you sure that the carb you put on has a spark control valve on it? If it doesn't, then your load-a-matic distributor isn't going to get the right vacuum signal at the right time. Excuse me if you've already checked this.
cctgene":181uusj8 said:reweb
Going to take another shot at this!
After going back and re-reading all of your previous post, I can’t help but focus in on the coil as the source of your problems.
The reason I’m drawn to that conclusion is based upon what you’ve said. To begin with you mentioned that before you started the thread you had a problem where by it was necessary to replaced the resister wire and at that that time you had +8 volts on the positive side of the coil and the car ran great. Then at some point you begin to have problems with stalling on deceleration and not starting again after the engine was shut off. When this happen you mentioned that you were seeing +5 volts on the positive side of the coil. You then indicated that you were going to hook the coil directly to the 12-volt battery. You then later reported that you were seeing +10.5 and that the car was now running great. Some where along the line your problems came back and then you revealed that once the car died the only way you could get it started again was by moving the distributor and that the car would not stay in time. You also indicated that your timing light didn’t work while cranking your engine once it shut off.
If you indeed did wire the coil directly to battery then perhaps you fried the coil, shorting out some of the coil winding, and causing it to overheat and stop functioning. The thing is, once the coil cools down it may work again until the next time it overheats. As I previously suggested, moving the distributor may having nothing to do with the fact that your car will start again. It may be just that the time it takes do it, allows your coil to cool down.
The fact that you reported that the car ran great when you first saw the 10.5 volts tends to make me question the whole timing issue. I don’t know if you will agree this analysis or if I've over simplified it, but that’s all I’ve got this morning!
reweb":2i62ei0q said:I went back through the recent posts. Lot's of info there. I have answered questions below.
Q: We haven't heard from Reweb since sunday night. I hope he hasn't done something silly like Auto/cide. Please say it aint so.
A: This is funny! Thanks. Actually I went to beach yesterday afternoon, drank beer + chatted with a few women. Good time!
addo":vkco98hy said:I dunno. He sounded happiest after coming back from a day at the beach (did the chicks have any suggestions on fixing his car?). So maybe a "balanced" approach between recreation and resolution is needed!
One point people miss on the "Timing light not working" saga. There was no power to the coil because he hadn't got the ignition on when cold cranking. So - no spark.
Reweb - did you borrow a meter to test the coil voltage at run, or do you have one? Mine is basically like this, and it's really handy:
Regards, Adam.
addo":36ugx2pl said:OK, that's why you weren't getting a reading at cranking. The starter button (really a jump switch) doesn't energise the points.